![]() ![]() So he ordered the part, and in a few days it arrived. Since his vehicle only has 1 cam shaft position sensor, we knew it was time for it to be replaced. “Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Bank 1 or Single Sensor” The description of the code was as follows: I got to his house and plugged in my code reader and we realized his car was throwing a P0340 code. Knowing that I was a automotive technician, he messaged me the other day to try and help him figure out what was going on with his Subaru. P034My good friend’s Forester recently stalled out and left him stranded on the side of the road. How to replace a cam shaft position sensor on a 1999 Subaru Forester. This vehicle is much more than just a method of transportation for me, I really do see machine as a good friend and I plan on keeping her forever. If it wasn’t for this car I wouldn’t be working as an automotive tech, and I truly believe my life would be completely different. 15x8 Rota RKR wheels/13x8 SSR Mk3 wheels. Larger rear differential with 1 piece axles. Exedy lightened flywheel and stage 1 clutch. More plans for the future include complete body work including, dent and ding removal, professional respray, and redoing the interior since it defintely shows its age. I built this car with a purpose, and it defintely gets put to the test. Yes, there are dings and dents and the paint isn’t the best, but that’s because this car is driven and not parked in a garage like others. I rebuilt the engine and it’s running better than ever before. In the last year I installed new wheels, a hardtop, fender flares, and garage vary tail lights. This car has been through many different visual appearances, but it’s current one is differently my favorite. This car has taught me everything from suspension work, engine rebuilds, drive train replacements, body work, as well as driving on a racetrack. Since then my Miata has gone through 3 different suspension set ups, 5 different sets of wheels, 8 track events, 1 theft, and many long nights filled with: driving, wrenching, and friends. It was a deal that is completely impossible to come by today since prices of Miatas have skyrocketed in the recent years. I bought it for $1,500 and it was complete stock with brand new paint, tires, and a convertible top. I came into ownership of this beauty on April 21st 2012 according to my Instagram post from that day. I actually have a BP6D-18-881B in a closet that works as well.Īlso neither support immobilizers, so you can just slap em in, unplug your immobilizer, and your good to go.Over the years I have bought and sold many cars, but one car that has stuck with me for a long time has been my Miata. Revving it out to 7500 is neat too - if you get the "BP6D-18-881C" ECU (which I have but I will warn you - it's extremely hard to find, I had to enlist the help of a friend in Japan to find one). The engine itself feels about the same, but with a bit more top end. Two sets of pins on the ECU have to be jumpered as well - I can't remember clearly right now, but one is to prevent a TCU code from popping up (which forces it to go open loop), and the other allows the fuel pump to work because it's on a different pin in the US ecu's.Īfter that it works wonderfully, apart from the CEL not working, and mine likes to rev up a little (like 1000-1100 rpm) when I push the clutch in, but not sure if that's it's fault or something else. Also I'm pretty sure it absolute needs 93 octane due to the higher compression. No emissions testing here however - it will not work if you have emissions to worry about. I ended up recycling that transmission, couldn't find a buyer and had no space for it It came with an auto trans as well - so I know it likely wasn't beat on too hard. I wanted to make sure I was putting in a nice one that would last. The engine was also SUPER clean, it was a great find. The engine had the newer small-style A/C compressor so I know it came from a 2004 or newer car - which is nice. I currently have a JDM VVT engine and ECU in mine (2002 SE). ![]()
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